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INFILL

X3

Made by: @3XAY
Repository link: https://github.com/3XAY/X3-3DP/
Total hours so far: 1.5

  • I have a 3D printer or will be getting one before March 21st

Goal:

  • Build volume must be at LEAST 200x200x200mm, ideally close to 250, but is optional depending on budget
  • Must be CoreXY
  • All parts should be printable in a build volume of 180x180x180mm (Bambu Lab A1 Mini)
  • Should be simple to build
  • Should be simple to maintain
  • Be able to print PETG
  • Use common parts
  • Quality and/or speed should be similar to Bambu Lab A1 Mini
  • Direct drive extruder
  • Auto bed leveling
  • Klipper support
  • Screen is optional (planning on using web GUI)
  • Closed loop motors
  • Built=in belt tensioner (like Sovol SV07)
  • Video monitoring (optional)
  • Use a custom PCB (that can include the LEDs + accelerometer and would be super close to the nozzle)

Day 1 (2/6/25):

Goal for the day: Preliminary research, figure out the basics of how a printer is made + what parts I would need to add in my BOM.
Why is this goal useful: It allows me to better understand each part + helps me start planning the parts list, which affects the cost (duh)
Time spent: 1.5hrs

Info collected:

  • Steel chassis could be good Too expensive in America, I should probably stick to aluminum channel
  • Motion system: Z-axis would use a lead screw + 1 motor and move the bed up and down, more research is required for XY axes
  • Motors: NEMA 17 motors appear to be the standard, LDO motors seems to be a good brand
  • Belt: Apparently, the GT2 Timing belt is standard
  • Controller board: BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 is a really common controller board that isn’t used much for CoreXY builds but is pretty good for a budget build
  • Wiring: About as easy as making a PC, so not too bad
  • Nozzle: Maybe use Bambu A1 nozzles? (This way I can use them for both printers)
  • Overall parts: Motors for motion system + extruder, heatbed, frame, power supply, controller, hotend, bed leveling sensor, accelerometer (input shaping), limit switches, raspberry pi (for Klipper), cooling fans, something to hold the z-axis (probably lead screw), something to hold the xy axes (linear rods/rails)
  • Filament for printer: PETG is good enough for everything, use PLA if you want for accent pieces + parts that aren’t going to be under high stress (mechanical and/or temperature), Nylon CAN be printed on A1 mini if heat is REALLY a concern, but is much more expensive, and PETG will be fine for the toolhead
  • Total parts list (need to research in greater detail):
    • Frame
      • Leadscrew/Threaded rods (for the Z-Axis)
      • Belts (for the XY axes)
      • Aluminum extrusion (normally T-slot or V-slot)
      • Smooth rods (for XY axes)
    • Toolhead
      • Hotend (Bambu hotends are ~$12 and have the heatsink + nozzle)
      • Heater cartridge (This actually heats up the filament)
      • Thermistor/Thermocouple/RTD (Lets you know what the temp of the hotend is)
      • Nozzle (Part of the Bambu hotend)
      • Part cooling fan (cools down the layer that was just printed)
      • Hotend cooling fan (cools the heatsink itself down, ensures that the plastic doesn’t melt early, allowing for greater control)
    • Electronics
      • Heatbed
      • Controller (Actually controls the motors, heaters, etc. BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 is a start for researching)
      • Computer (To run Klipper on, allows for faster processing, will likely be a Raspberry Pi)
      • Cooling fans
      • Limit switches
      • Bed leveling sensors
      • Accelerometer (For input shaping)
      • Motors (Normally NEMA 17 stepper motors that tend to have 200ppr)
      • LEDs (To allow you to see the part + for recording)
      • Camera (For print monitoring + videos + timelapses)
    • Other
      • Build plate
      • PTFE tube
      • Silicone sock (Bambu lab)
      • Nozzle cleaning (Like the Bambu Lab A1 Mini, completely optional, would be nice to have as a pre-print macro in Klipper)